More food

I’m on a roll.

Today I made the Pink Lady Cake, which is white cake with strawberry puree. I made 2/3 the recipe and baked it in a Bundt pan, because I wanted a cake I didn’t have to frost. In retrospect I should have made the full recipe; it was low. (I was working on the basis that the recipe was for 3 9″ pans, and 2 9″ pans have the same capacity as a 12 cup Bundt. I don’t know if the layers are low, or it’s just my Bundt pan which is now labeled as having a “10-16 cup” capacity.) I also added vanilla by mistake (habit) though I don’t think it made a difference. It was delicious. I think it would have been even better with whipped cream.

I also did balsamic tomatoes and onions. Blanch and peel cipolline or pearl onions. Put in baking pan with grape tomatoes. Add about a tablespoon of olive oil, a few tablespoons of balsamic (don’t overdo it; you don’t want vinegar sauce), and some coarse salt. Toss. Roast at 400 (I turned it up to 425 later on to make them darker) till everything has brown spots and the tomatoes have blistered, 30-40 minutes.

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Recent cooking

A roundup of several recipes I’ve made lately:

Pasta. When I first made pasta at home, I meekly obeyed Marcella Hazan’s dictum that you cannot make pasta dough in a food processor. I am happy to report that this is not entirely true. You can use the FP to make it easier. Put the flour and eggs in the processor, using the dough blade. Process till it begins to come together, then remove and knead by hand. This means you always use the right amount of flour, and you don’t get your hands sticky, but you get the benefits of hand kneading.

I also made her Cappellacci. My ravioli making skills need work, and we’ll leave it at that! The filling was okay. I was dreaming of the tortelli di zucca I had in Rome last year; these were not the same, but I couldn’t tell you how. I’ll have to go back to Rome for another plateful.

Braised Short Ribs: I’ve made these 3 times now, and it’s worth the work. I did substitute beef stock for veal and I did thicken the sauce with roux (not too thick; I still had to reduce it, but it had some more body). I also omitted the bacon, because I don’t eat bacon. These should be made a day in advance, so they can be chilled and de-fatted—make the vegetable garnish the day you serve. You only need 1 rib per person as they’re very rich.

Elvis Presley’s Favorite Pound Cake: I’ve seen a few recipes claiming to be Elvis’ favorite pound cake. I decided to try this one because of the cream. I added 1 tsp of baking powder, based on experience with pound cake. I don’t know if this really did much to lighten the texture; I was being cautious. It was definitely very sweet, but tasty. Not the most melting or buttery pound cake I’ve ever had; The Cake Bible wins that one. It turns out perfectly from a Bundt, too—no sticking. (I’d also like to say that I’m very pleased with my new platinum Bundt. Some reviewers complained about it being slightly lighter weight, but I didn’t have a problem and I prefer the lighter color.)

Apple Cake: I’ve made my share of apple cakes in my time. I’ve made my share of bad ones, too. Batter too stiff to beat easily, cake doesn’t absorb the moisture of the apples well and gets soggy, batter too thin to support the apples, tasteless… the list goes on. So when I kept getting rave reviews for this cake, I decided it was worth a try. I was a little worried, because I’ve had bad experiences with oil based cakes. What other people call “moist”, I often call “greasy”.

Nonetheless, I tried. I did substitute apple varieties, though, as I’ve found that McIntosh tend to break down too quickly. I used half Granny Smith, half Macoun. I did worry a little when there didn’t seem to be quite enough batter, but in it went.

All the raves were right. It was moist but not greasy, not heavy, and the flavor was terrific. I think the proportion of apple to cake was a little too high, but I might just have had particularly large apples. (Another reason people should give weights, I say.) We had some warm with ice cream, which made my husband clean his bowl and exclaim “this is GOOD!” High praise from a man who usually has to be prodded for feedback. It was just as good cold the 2nd day, and the third too.

Funny postscript: Two days after I made it, my sister (who does not cook) e-mailed me telling me she had this fantastic apple cake recipe I had to try—so simple! Guess which one it was.

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On “research”

It is fashionable, on the Internet at any rate, to boast of how much “research” you have done on a particular issue. It is also fashionable to caricature this in various ways: savvy parents upending the experts, know it all scientists looking down on what they see as the unwashed masses. See Jenny McCarthy.

Here’s the problem:

90% of “mommy research” is bullshit, and always will be.

The phenomenon relies on false assumptions: that the Internet has democratized information; that it is all available and we can all access it. This is true, at least it is if you have access to a university with journal and full text access. The lie is that we are equipped to analyze and understand this information. Very few of us are. It is considered “elitist” to object to parents doing their own research (or, in more extreme circumstances, arguing against it will get you called a shill for Big Pharma or whatever medical/scientific group is pertinent to the situation).

Most parents do not have an intensive scientific education; they do not have the ability to judge whether a study was well done or relevant. I don’t. I’ve read enough about scientific research to spot the major howlers, but there are hundreds of errors that could be made that I wouldn’t spot. I took basic statistics in college, and if you start talking about a chi-square I’ll more or less understand you, but at this point in life I have to assume that the writer and editors checked their math—I certainly couldn’t redo it.

That’s only the tip of the iceberg, though. That assumes that they’ve actually gone to the trouble of finding the full text and the studies. Many, if not most, of the people claiming to have done “research” haven’t done this. Perhaps they’ve trawled through abstracts on PubMed. Or, more likely and worse, they’ve read predigested popular books on the topic. So they’ve got someone else’s opinion about a selection of studies on the topic. They don’t know if there were other studies that were excluded from the discussion (or why); they don’t know about dissenting views. But on some forums, this level of reading qualifies as “research”. At this level, you aren’t doing research for yourself; you’re reading opinions and deciding who you want to trust.

From that point, the conclusions get simplified, and passed along like talismans.

A recent thread on a large and popular parenting forum is fairly typical. A woman, in her first pregnancy, went to the obstetricians at a famous hospital. She did not like their policies, and switched. Now, some time later, she wants to write them a letter. The research she’s using to back her up? Henci Goer’s The Thinking Woman’s Guide to a Better Birth. She wants her OBs to read this. Henci Goer is not a medical professional; she’s a doula, childbirth educator, and writer. Her OBs will not take her seriously (and I told her so).

The kicker is that the policies she was complaining about are not universally accepted in obstetrics, and she could have found research to support her—if she had been willing to do real work, which she wasn’t. (Her issues were continuous EFM for all mothers, and an NPO policy.)

The cEFM example is also an illustration of how research is filtered and simplified. On this forum, it will be stated that cEFM has no advantages; that it increases Caesarean sections without better outcomes. That’s not quite true. There’s a Cochrane review on EFM, mainly based on a major, well done trial, and it did conclude that cEFM did not improve outcomes. However, it was performed on low risk women, with 1:1 labor support, on a specific schedule. So, cEFM does not provide advantages for those women, under those conditions. We don’t know what the advantages might be in other situations, because it wasn’t addressed.

The real head-banger is when people claim to have been “researching” vaccination. That’s worthy of a post in itself; maybe I’ll write it sometime.

Introductory post

In case you don’t know me:

I’m 32. I grew up on Long Island. I spent just over 4 years in London, moved back to New York, and then moved to central Pennsylvania. I’m trying to adapt to a state that doesn’t sell beer in the supermarket, has marginally less aggressive drivers and does not have edible bagels. I’m married and have one daughter, who was born in January 2007.

I tend to talk about parenting (personal and general), food, kitchen gadgets, news items, health, science/media issues, vaccination, Judaism, and occasionally politics. I’m not a scientist—I quit being a biology major when I realized you needed to be good at chemistry, not marginally competent—but I became very interested in scientific issues due to an influx of woo into modern parenting, particularly amongst people who share my parenting style. I’m moderately liberal in a way that would make Glenn Beck scream “socialist!!!” and an actual European socialist yell “bourgeois reactionary.”  I overuse parentheses and em-dashes, though I’m making an effort to aim for clarity and correct sentence structure rather than jamming clauses together with some punctuation.

I used to keep a very scattershot kind of diary on LiveJournal. I’ve finally come to the conclusion that despite the fact that I still have friends there, despite the fact that some of the features the software offers are very nifty (something which kept me on LiveJournal longer than I perhaps should have been—never discount the ability to vent about people in private), it’s gone too far downhill for me. So, a new attempt, possibly with fewer pointless updates about how little housework I’ve done that day.

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This is a placeholder post to take the place of the stupid “Hello world” one.